simon SUBMERGED IN CULTURAL DREAMS!
Coffee, Cigarette, a plane ride and fragments of my notebook from my trip to cali!
Note I:
• Kris Hall, Los Angeles
Note II:
• Shaper, Musician, Surfer. I can’t really pin point why i’ve tried to make this story about Kris! I mean I love the artistic pleasure of capturing something aesthetic no matter what it is! And we all know by now that Kris is one of the persons who come the closest to submerged really early in his life into the 60’s surf scene which I find pretty funky! Maybe it was this! Maybe just the fact that I’ve met Kris at last years Gliding Barnacles where he just showed us how to turn a board like we all want to! I also don’t really mind why.. ;)
So I went to join him for a while and I discovered not just an incredibly talented human who’s just super fun to hang with but someone who's also deeply connected to the every day pleasure of the Californian surf scene!
Note III:
• Found this on Mollusk about the Jazz Pin (one of Kris’s Board Models): Rhythmically beating away like a Buddy Rich drum solo, the Jazzy Jive Pintail spontaneously performs while holding the backbeat of a true line! “Mollusk 2019” ... sounds like he surfs!
Note IV:
• We’re literally waking up super early, Surf, Coffee, Breaky, Shaping, playing old Vinyls, and having some jam sessions, surfing again, for almost 2 weeks now! I Don’t know what it is, but the US is just super inspiring to me! Especially when you have someone who’s showing you around the things you really need to know as a surfer/photographer! I’m asking myself: How the hell does he do all these things at once?? Well, mostly because we stood up at 4.30 every day! But it seemed Kris is all doing all this with ease.. so between large Coffee’s and hanging out in Cypress Surf Shop we found some time to fucking enjoy the pretty damn good waves that California has to offer!
Note V:
• I need to capture my feeling that Kris doesn’t really care about his “social status”... It’s more like his real being! Which probably included being authentic anyways..so no need! Its just in his bones! It’s crazy how life evolves around the things you do when u actually love doing them! Especially with Kris i had the feeling that his passions go hand in hand with how he wants to live! So everything evolves naturally and he’s able to develop his skills incredible fast cause of that! Doesn’t matter if it’s in the water or on a futsal table. And in my opinion he sets himself apart because of this! Its unbelievably authentic seeing him living his life! So that was enough for me to join Kris and Taylor way longer than i expected! Was a fucking good time!
Here’s the outcome of my journey with them! Much love too you!
- Simon Fitz
Text & Photography by Simon Fitz
Shot over consecutive mornings during the long, recent run of North Coast autumn swell, In the Family of Things is Dave Rastovich in his element, doing his thing.